Fabric spec decisions get reduced to a name — "cotton," "fleece," "poly-blend" — but two numbers actually determine how a garment feels and performs: GSM (weight) and fiber composition (blend). Getting these right is the difference between a garment that feels premium and one that feels cheap, regardless of price point.

What GSM Actually Means

GSM stands for grams per square meter — a direct measurement of how much a given area of fabric weighs, which correlates closely with thickness and density. Higher GSM generally means a heavier, more substantial fabric; lower GSM means lighter and more breathable.

  • 160–180 GSM: Lightweight — typical for basic t-shirts, warm-climate wear, athletic tops
  • 180–220 GSM: Mid-weight — the standard range for premium t-shirts and lighter hoodies
  • 220–280 GSM: Heavyweight — premium streetwear tees, standard hoodies and sweatshirts
  • 280–400+ GSM: Ultra-heavyweight — premium hoodies, heavyweight fleece, outerwear linings

Higher GSM isn't automatically "better" — it depends on the product. A lightweight performance tee at 320 GSM would feel stiff and overly warm; a premium streetwear hoodie at 160 GSM would feel thin and cheap. Match GSM to how the garment is actually meant to be worn.

Common Fabric Blends and What They're For

100% Cotton

Soft, breathable, and natural, but prone to shrinkage and slower to dry. Best for premium tees and everyday hoodies where hand-feel matters most.

Cotton-Poly Blends (50/50, 80/20)

Combines cotton's softness with polyester's durability and shrink resistance. A practical middle ground for hoodies and sweatshirts that need to hold shape through repeated washing.

Tri-Blend (Cotton/Poly/Rayon)

Adds rayon for drape and a lived-in, slightly worn softness straight out of production. Popular in premium streetwear tees for its distinctive hand-feel.

100% Polyester / Performance Fabrics

Moisture-wicking, fast-drying, and shape-retentive — the standard for athletic uniforms, tracksuits, and performance wear where function matters more than natural fiber feel.

French Terry

A looped-back knit, usually cotton or cotton-blend, lighter than traditional fleece with a smoother finish. Common in premium sweatshirts and joggers positioned between a t-shirt and a full hoodie in weight.

How to Actually Choose

Start from the end use, not the fabric name. Ask: does this garment need to feel premium and heavy, or light and breathable? Does it need to perform under sweat and movement, or sit comfortably as everyday streetwear? From there, GSM and blend follow logically — and a manufacturer with in-house fabric sourcing should be able to recommend exact specs once they understand the intended product and price point, rather than offering only whatever they happen to have in stock.

Getting Fabric Right the First Time

Arkana Sports sources fabric in-house across cotton, cotton-poly blends, tri-blend, performance polyester, and French terry, with GSM options spanning lightweight to ultra-heavyweight depending on the product. We can also produce lab dips and fabric samples ahead of a full sample garment, so fabric decisions are locked in before cutting begins. Request a quote and tell us the product and feel you're going for — we'll recommend the right GSM and blend.